Talenti

After a year of being in the headlines for all the wrong sorts of reasons, it's time for Brunello to quell the blood-letting, get back on its feet and shout about why we should be drinking it rather than talking about it. The Talenti estate is located south of Montalcino, close to the small medieval village of San Angelo in Colle. Ricardo Talenti has overseen plenty of improvements in both the vineyards and cellar since taking over from grandfather Pierluigi. The Brunello comes from the pick of their older vineyards, planted in 1981, and then follows a precise wine-making process. It then matures in large oak barrels (26 and 18 hl) with a small percentage in 500 litre tonneaux for 2 years and then 12 months in bottle before being released. The Sangiovese character slides languorously out of the glass with cherries, leather and chocolate reminding us what all the 'Brunellogate' fuss is all about.

And equally exciting is the wonderful value medium-bodied Rosso di Montalcino with bright red fruit flabours, ripe, firm tannins and bright, mouth-watering acidity. From younger vines, it goes through a similar, hands-off winemaking process before being aged for 12 months in old oak barrels to soften it but also retain the fruit foremost.