Mitchelton

Victoria's Mitchelton winery, which celebrates its 40th anniversary in 2009, was a pioneer for the state. Set up in 1969 by Melbourne entrepreneur David Shelmerdine, the area was an old grazing ranch before the decision to plant vines was taken. At the time, the neighbours looked on bemused but forty years on, Shelmerdine's vision has been borne out.

Located in the Goulburn Valley in Central Victoria, Mitchelton lies some 100km from the ocean and has a much warmer climate than the coastal-influenced Yarra Valley. While the area is too warm for Pinot and Chardonnay - perhaps the grapes most associated with Victoria - it is perfect for Rhone varietals.

Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre all thrive here, as do their white counterparts Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. Warmth and richness of fruit are classic MItchelton characteristics but the wines are very different from the ultra-ripe, big wines of the Barossa. The Shiraz in particular takes on much more Rhone like characteristics of black pepper, flowers and red fruit. The skill of winemaker Ben Haines lies in his ability protect these subtler, more complex elements whilst harnessing the innate power the climate gives to the wines.

The results frequently surprise Old World Syrah lovers who have a tendency to tar all Australian Shiraz with the same high-alcohol and sweet-fruit brush.