Laroche

With his explorative nature and bona fide Chablis zeal, Michel Laroche has continued to propel both the appellation (he is the instigator of the Union des Grands Crus) and his own Domaine to new heights. Michel is the 5th generation of the family that has run the Domaine since 1850 and has been at the helm since 1967. 40+ years of Chablis experience, as well as an enviable range of vineyard holdings, mean that Laroche are still at the very top of the game.

Of the 100ha of vines, 30 are Premiers Crus vineyards (including 10 in Vaudevay) and 6 are Grands Crus vineyards (including 4.5ha of Blanchots and 1ha of les Clos). Gentle pressing, early screwcap adoption and adventurous use of oak all mark Laroche and winemaker, Denis de la Bourdonnaye, out as (respectful) pirates in the region and the results speak volumes for their philosophy. Fourchaumes, Vaudevay and Vaillons especially have wonderful Premiers Crus character with spicy minerality and different expressions of lighter up to riper fruit.

It gets really exciting up at Grand Cru level though as the Blanchots melds delightfully with the oak (80% goes into barrel, of which only 15% is new wood) to produce delicate, fresh flavours laid over real power and precision. Grand Cru Blanchots Reserve de l'Obedience undergoes 100% barrel fermentation with 33% new oak turns up the opulence and richness another notch, while Les Clos exudes floral perfumes, honeysuckle and herbal complexity. These are extremely charming wines that will give pleasure when young, but will equally cellar well for up to 10 years.