Domaine du Colombier

In Florent Viale we know that we have a gem on our hands. An incredibly tall gem admittedly, but a gem nonetheless. The wines of Domaine du Colombier tell the tale of terroir in the Northern Rhone as well as anybody. With 13ha of Syrah in Crozes, 1.81ha just over the appellation border in Hermitage, and 1.9ha of Marsanne for the white, Florent produces concentrated yet zippy wines that unmistakably reveal the soil and climatic traits of each area.

The Crozes-Hermitage comes from 12 or so different vineyard plots around Tain and Mercurol, just on the appellation border and a stone's throw from the hallowed hill, and is fermented for 2 weeks in epoxy-lined vats with pumping over 2-3 times per day. Excessive heat is avoided if possible in order to retain the purity and freshness of the fruit. 50-60% is then aged in 600 litre barrels before the best parcels are selected for the Cuvee Gaby. This wine has more intense black fruit and lots of enticing leathery, meaty characters.

Turn the volume up a few notches and you reach the fabled Hermitage which shows the power of 'the hill'. This wine has an encyclopedic fruit profile allied to tarry, inky, savoury characters that fairly explode in the mouth. The whites fly the flag for measured use of oak and bright, lemony acidity. 40% of the Crozes gets a 6 month stay in those big 600L demi muids barrels before blending and bottling. Come en primeur time each year, you'll see a fairly disorderly queue of Bibendumites trying to get a taste - this really is a Domaine that we enjoy.