Domaine de Font-Sane

As the jagged Dentelles de Montmirail rise ominously in the background, it's time to fold the map back up again and know that you've arrived in Gigondas. Don't be too scared though; apparently the village of Gigondas gets its name from the Latin 'Jocunditas' - a place to make merry - so presumably the cracking wines have always served to cheer the locals. The red marls, sands and pebbles on a limestone base offer a very inviting home for Grenache which is generally fresher and more vibrant than down the road in Chateuneuf. And as its more illustrious neighbour soars in price, Gigondas is well placed to give Rhone lovers an altogether more satisfying experience.

The Domaine itself is brilliantly run buy the charming Veronique Peysson-Cunty and her family. Pop in on any given day and you'll usually find Grandma greeting visitors and kids helping out on the little bottling line. This is artisan winemaking with a real basis of quality. Vines situated up on the terraces under the Dentelles get a breather in the heat of the summer, giving the wines with a telltale freshness and clarity. The 15ha domaine is not organically certified, but they only use organic fertilizers and are working towards becoming biodynamic.

"The 2006 [Gigondas Tradition] is a beautifully made, elegant wine with a deep ruby/purple-tinged color, attractive notes of raspberries and cherries, with some chalkiness in the background. It is medium-bodied, with an excellent, savory mid-palate, and sweet tannins in the finish. It is a blend of 72% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault, all aged in old foudres."

88-90pts, Robert Parker, www.erobertparker.com