Chateau Pierre Bise

Claude Papin is an Loire icon and a thoroughly engaging conversationalist to boot. Andrew Jefford calls him a "poet of Chenin Blanc", and Jancis Robinson MW "one of the most talented wine growers in this part of the world, a true vine technician". His approach to Chenin could be summed up in his own words: "The Chenin is made by botrytization. If there isn't any, it always makes hard wine. Even my dry wines are made with about 50% botrytization. This translates in the wine as honeyed notes." (Quote taken from The New France, Andrew Jefford)

This shows through in all of his wines: the Anjou Haut de la Garde has a honeyed depth to the fruit with a curious, but successful tannic structure supporting this weight - a rare experience, and definitely one worth trying. This character is formed in the vineyards and the grapes, from low-yielding vines (25hl/ha) are hand-picked when they reach optimum ripeness, after several passes through the vineyard. Set at the northern end of the Loire Valley, his 54ha of vineyards are split across a range of mostly metamorphic rocks (spilite, schist and quartz). Also set on mainly steep south/south-west facing slopes, facing straight into the sun and almost constant winds, they benefit from an exceptional micro-climate.

The Coteaux du Layon is a wonderfully pure wine with refreshing flashes of nervosité set against rich, ripe fruit and sweetness. The Savennieres is a deep, satisfying wine that comforts and thrills as much as it confounds. You must approach these wines with an open mind and palate and they will bring you completely unique tasting experiences.

"This wine [Savennieres] is as tight as a pair of trousers after a week in Bordeaux. It is as dry as a bone; really taut with great acidity. The fruit is lovely and ripe with just a hint of botrytis honey thrown in. Lovely texture on the finish too. If you need reminding of how good Chenin can be, this is a good place to do it." Harpers, December 2008