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Alois Lageder launches his first certified Biodynamic wine in the UK - 29/10/2008
According to Alois Lageder, biodynamic wine is "the purest possible expression of the terroir." So after years of hard work and the rigmarole of certification, he is on the brink of releasing his first biodynamic wine in the UK.
It is a 50:50 Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio blend from the 2007 vintage with the grapes coming from 64 hectares of vineyards that were converted to biodynamic farming in 2004 and Demeter certified in 2007. It is the latest element in Lageder's holistic approach to all things wine, with the ultimate aim being to produce fine wines with authentic character. Going hand in hand with this, it is an approach that accepts the responsibility to leave behind for future generations a natural environment as intact as possible.
"A meaningful reaction to climate change can't be seen to lie in still more technology, and must much more rely on a true sensibility to the laws of nature." said Alois Lageder who has for several years been working with growers who supply some of his winery's grapes, informing them on organic and biodynamic principles and teaching them the benefits to the grape, the wine and the land. Some reject it, some embrace it, but it is a long term goal and Lageder is ready to invest his time in it.
This particular wine is a blend, which represents somewhat of a departure from the traditional varietal wines of his range. As far back as the Magre Wine Symposium of 2005, Alois and other top viticulturists and climatologists, discussed the growing importance of blended or cuvee wines as vintage conditions become more variable. This leaves the winemaker a little more room to manoeuvre to produce the best possible finished wine. This is an integral element to the success of biodynamic viticulture as consumers are willing to experiment, but ultimately the wine must be judged with the same taste criteria as any other wine.
The virtuous circle is completed in the winery, which will be carbon neutral by 2009. As well as looking much like a Bond-villain bunker, the building has been rigorously planned and constructed on ecological criteria. From geothermic air conditioning, to solar energy use, to radiant low-temperature ceiling heating, to heat recycling, the structure is free of harmful emissions and is noiseless and efficient.
Does all this contribute to a decent glass of wine? The Biodynamic Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio 2007 is a lovely clear, clean gold colour with green tints. The nose is beautifully fresh with hints of lush tropical fruit overlaying stony minerality. It has a gorgeous mouthfeel, lush yet taut with acidity. The glycerol (from a long, slow fermentation) gives it a very creamy feel and the fruit flows through, finishing with fresh lemon and apple.
It will be available in the UK from mid-December and will be joined next year by a red blend, also from the 2007 vintage. To hear Alois talking about the wine, watch this short video on the blog.
